By DIANE SLAWYCH, SPECIAL TO THE SUN

BASSETERRE, St. Kitts -- A trip to St. Kitts would be incomplete without a visit to Frigate Bay. It's the place to be on this Caribbean island. The gorgeous stretch of sand on the southeast coast has it all, whether you want to sample local food, enjoy happy hour, go for a swim or see an entertaining show.

It wasn't always so lively though. A few years ago, only a couple of beach bars occupied "the strip." Then the government-run Frigate Bay Beach Corp. decided to set some rules about future development. Spaces were allotted for new vendors but only open-air structures were permitted. No brick buildings or foundations were allowed.

Now about a dozen clapboard shacks line the golden ribbon of sand, from Buddies Beach hut with its grass-covered roof and Hip Hop tunes at one end, to Shiggidy Shack where you can sign up for snorkelling tours or fishing charters at the other end.

It seems there are no restrictions about colours, judging by the lively multi-hued stripes of the Rainbow Bar and the murals and vibrant shades that decorate many of the other distinctive huts. The Monkey Bar, the oldest on the strip, which specializes in seafood and stays open late on Friday nights, has never had so much competition. Even so, each bar differentiates itself somehow. Ziggy's, for example, invites visitors to "ask for a free sample" of rum punch, while Cathy's Ocean View Beach Bar and Grill claims to have the "best barbecue chicken, ribs, jerk pork and grilled lobster." In the mood for a little salsa or merengue music? Head to Tasha on de Strip. For reggae, try Inon's, or if Hip Hop is your style, Buddies Beach Hut is the place to go. Most of the music is recorded, though one afternoon I encountered a live country band on the beach.

Bask in the gorgeous beaches of St. Kitts. (Clipart.com)

Surprisingly with all this activity, there are still quiet spots to be found. Even near the bars, it never seems overly crowded or raucous. That is probably why a few masseurs figured they could do business here, too.

One offered foot massages for $25 US, while "Danny the master of the 'alovera' beach massage," was charging $35 US according to a sign. It sounded enticing but after a day in the sun, I opted for the cool indoors and walked 15 minutes from the beach to the Marriott Resort and the tranquil environment of its Emerald Mist Spa, one of the best spas on the island. Just minutes into a soothing foot massage I promptly fell asleep and awoke half-an-hour later surprisingly energized.

By late afternoon or evening, most beaches are empty of tourists. Not Frigate Bay. At night, the strip takes on a different personality with each bar having its own drink specials and activities.

For example, Ziggy's has open mic on Wednesdays, karaoke on Thursdays, and a live band on Fridays. On Thursday nights, the most popular place to be is Mr. X's Shiggidy Shack for dinner (fresh lobster is a favourite) and the show, which features a live band playing island tunes and contemporary hits.

But the highlight is a performance by Fire Man who doesn't just eat, breathe and walk on fire, he passes a flaming torch over his entire body. A sizable crowd turns out for the show, and Fire Man doesn't disappoint, moving from table to table so everyone is guaranteed an unobstructed closeup view of his incredible feats.

After the show, a lot of people congregate around the bonfires on the beach, with some, no doubt sampling the local rum drinks flavoured with vanilla, mango or lime.

On the morning before I leave, I make a final visit to Frigate Bay, wishing there was time for one last swim. No one was in the water. There was a sign prohibiting dogs on the beach. Other critters, like monkeys, who sometimes congregate at the far end of the strip by the rocks, apparently have free rein.

At 10 a.m, only Ziggy's was open -- and it had customers! Had they pulled an all-nighter or come back for one last drink before heading home?

This story was posted on Wed, September 9, 2009
Source: http://www.canoe.ca/Travel/Caribbean/2009/09/02/10717221-sun.html